Artists and writers flocked to Carmel-by-the-Sea (aka Carmel), just south of Monterey on California’s Central Coast, in the early 1900s, leaving an indelible impact on the town. Today’s Carmel is an incredibly charming, upscale village with more than a hundred restaurants and galleries and a gazillion shops. It also has 60 courtyards, many with cobblestones — hence the city requires a permit if you wear high heels. Carmel is also one of the dog-friendliest towns in the nation.
The best way to explore Carmel is on foot or bike, and this itinerary starts off with lots of options for doing so. Park near Carmel Plaza and go to the visitor center on the second floor to get your bearings and pick up old-fashioned maps. There are no street addresses — everyone gets around by finding cross streets, for example, “on Junipero, between 4th and 5th,” so it’s helpful to have a visual portrayal of the one-square-mile town that’s bigger than a phone.
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